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Agents, lipid-replenishing
Skin cleansing products contain lipid-replenishing agents which are composed of important fatty acids such as linoleic, palmitic and oleic acids found for example in soya and avocado oils. These constituents are similar to those found in the natural lipid film. They are easily absorbed into the horny layer and balance out cleansing-related lipid losses.


Allantoin (5-ureidohydantoin)

Allantoin is a product of protein metabolism. It promotes wound healing and accelerates cell regeneration. In addition, it has a keratolytic action when applied topically.

Alpha-glucosylrutin (AGR), α-glucosylrutin
Alpha-glucosylrutin is a radical scavenger with a strong antioxidant effect.
The formation of highly reactive free radicals (oxidants) in the skin, principally singlet oxygen, is initiated by UV radiation energy, particularly longwave UVA rays. These free radicals cause lipid peroxidation and changes in the DNA. Radical scavengers (antioxidants) combine with these free radicals, neutralising them.
Together with vitamin E , alpha-glucosylrutin forms a topical radical-scavenger complex that significantly reduces UV-induced oxidative stress on the skin. UPE (ultraweak photon emission) measurements with the chemiluminescence method for the evaluation of antioxidants confirm that alpha-glucosylrutin significantly neutralizes free radicals. Clinical studies have shown that sunscreens containing alpha-glucosylrutin markedly reduce the symptoms of polymorphic light eruptions (PLE), which is caused, amongst other things, by the formation of free radicals.

Aluminium chlorohydrate
(aluminium chlorohydroxide/-hydroxyl complex: Al2(OH)5Cl.2-3 H20)

Aluminium chlorohydrate acts as an antiperspirant. Locally applied antiperspirants hinder sweat production.

1 Skin cell-damaging free radicals (O) are formed from oxygen (O2) under the influence of UVA rays.
2 The radical-scavenger complex of alpha-glucosylrutin and vitamin E builds an active protective depot in the skin.
3 Free radicals are neutralized and the skin cells protected. The symptoms of PLE are prevented.
4 Epidermis
5 Dermis
Amino acids
Amino acids are the smallest molecular components of proteins. All 20 amino acids contain both an acidic carboxyl group and a basic amino group. By means of these functional groups the amino acids can combine to form proteins (peptide bonding). Depending on the amino acid sequence (primary structure), these proteins have different functions and spatial structures (secondary and tertiary structures). The amino acids influence the structures according to their individual side chains. Amongst the different forms are acidic, basic, sulphur containing and aromatic amino acids.

Amino acids in topical application
Amino acids, because of their chemical nature (amino and carboxyl groups) have a buffer function. This stabilizes the protective acid mantle when applied topically. Some amino acids, such as L-arginine, have a skin-moisturising action and belong to what are known as natural moisturising factors (NMF).

Arginine
Arginine is a semi-essential amino acid. This means that when a deficiency arises for example during a growth phase or when the cornification process is disturbed, it must be supplied by nutritional means. In the skin, arginine is produced by the breakdown of filaggrins which originate in the cornification process. Should an arginine deficiency arise as the result of cornification disturbance, there is a parallel reduction in the urea content of the skin, as it is a product of arginine. The result is a marked reduction in the natural moisturising factors arginine and urea.
Arginine also has a positive effect on skin physiology, influencing the perception of irritation-triggering stimuli. The precise mechanism of this interaction is not yet known. A possible explanation for the anti-stinging effect of arginine is the stabilising effect of amino acids on the protective acid mantle of the skin, because of their buffer effect.

Ascorbyl palmitate
Ascorbyl palmitate is a derivative of vitamin C. It is a product of ascorbic acid (vitamin C) and the fatty acid palmitic acid. Ascorbyl palmitate acts as an antioxidant and for this reason, it is used in skincare preparations.

Structural formula of glutamic acid, an amino acid
Avocado oil (persea gratissima)
Avocado oil consists of approximately 85 percent unsaturated fatty acid glycerides, including oleic acid (65%) and linoleic acid glycerides (6-10%). Vitamins A and E, squalenes and lecithin are other components. Avocado oil spreads well and is easily absorbed into the skin where it supports the natural barrier function.


Beeswax (cera alba)
Beeswax is obtained from the product excreted by certain glands of the honeybee from which the honeycomb is made. It is freed of solid impurities by melting and centrifugation (cera flava). Finally, it is bleached completely white (cera alba). Beeswax consists of 10-15 percent paraffin carbohydrates, 35-37 percent esters of C16 to C36 fatty acids and about 15 percent cerotic acid, melissic acid and their homologues. Beeswax is used as a thickener and a humectant in the manufacture of ointments, creams, lipsticks and other cosmetics.

Biotin (vitamin H, coenzyme R)
Biotin has an important function in the enzymatic transfer of carboxyl groups, such as in the synthesis of fatty acids. For this reason, a biotin deficiency can lead to a disruption in the synthesis of the skin's own lipids, resulting in dermatitis. In addition, hair loss and disruption to nail growth can follow.

Bisabolol
Bisabolol is an active ingredient found in the ethereal oils of camomile. It is skin-soothing and anti-inflammatory.

Butylene glucol
Butylene glucol is used as a skin moisturiser in skincare products.

Butyrospermum parkii (see Shea butter)

Buxus chinensis (see Jojoba oil)

Cera alba (see Beeswax)

Cholesterol
Cholesterol is a hydroaromatic hydrocarbon (sterol) and the starting material for steroid hormones and bile acids. Additionally, cholesterol is a principle constituent of the barrier lipids of the horny layer.

Citrate buffer (see Eucerin® pH5 citrate buffer)

Citric acid (see also pH5-Eucerin® citrate buffer)
An important organic acid that plays a central role in human metabolism. Salts of citric acid are used in dermatological preparations to regulate and stabilize the physiological pH value of the skin.

Coenzyme Q10 (ubiquinone)
Coenzyme Q10, also called ubiquinone and CoQ10, is present in all cells. The significance of CoQ10 lies in its function as a collection point for reducing equivalents. It therefore acts as an electron carrier for the third stage of metabolism, the respiratory chain. All enzymatic steps of the aerobic, oxidative breakdown of nutrients (carbohydrates, fats and amino acids) end in this phase, where the energy for formation of adenosine triphosphate (ATP) from adenosine diphosphate (ATP) and phosphate is supplied by electron transfer.

Coenzyme Q10 in topical application
Biophysical studies show that the signs of skin ageing are reduced by the topical application of coenzyme Q10.
Coenzyme Q10 plays an especially important role in the production of energy in the cell mitochondria.

1 Carbohydrates, fats, amino acids
2 Mitochondrion
3 Chemical energy (ATP)
Conditioner
Conditioners are substances that, because of their strong affinity for keratin, form a protective film on the skin and hair. They are mostly used in hair care products to improve combing, but also in shower and bath products as well as in liquid soaps.

Dexpanthenol (provitamin B5, D-panthenol, D(+)-panthothenyl alcohol, pantothenylol)
Dexpanthenol is a substance with a broad spectrum of activity. For decades it has been used in dermatology to promote wound healing. Dexpanthenol is a biologically active alcohol that is transformed into pantothenic acid (vitamin B5). Pantothenic acid is an important component of coenzyme A: This converts inactive compounds into their active, energy-rich forms and thus plays a key role in carbohydrate, fat and protein metabolism. The turnover of pantothenic acid in the constantly regenerating cells of the epidermis is especially high. As pantothenic acid is unstable, only the stable alcohol form dexpanthenol is used in topical preparations.

Dexpanthenol in topical application
In various studies it has been shown that topical application of dexpanthenol to skin lesions and wounds markedly shortens the time required to regenerate the epithelium. This indicates that dexpanthenol accelerates cell formation in the deeper lying epidermal layers. The newly formed cells rebuild the natural protective barrier.

Skin moisturising effect
Dexpanthenol shows a good moisture retaining capacity that is an ability to bind water and to store it. It is also well absorbed by the skin.

Skin compatibility and other properties
Dexpanthenol is reported to relieve itching and have anti-inflammatory properties. Especially valuable is the excellent skin compatibility of dexpanthenol. This substance has been granted GRAS status (Generally Regarded As Safe) by the strict American regulatory authorities.

Concentration of dexpanthenol
In order to be effective, dexpanthenol must be present in skincare products in a very high concentration of at least 2%.

Diammonium citrate (see Eucerin® pH5 citrate buffer)

Eucerin® pH5 citrate buffer
The stratum corneum covers the epidermis, forming a barrier and acting as the skin's protective acid mantle. Current research results prove that the physiological processes in and on the skin take place best in a slightly acidic medium. To support the skin's functions, it is therefore important to use skincare products with a physiological pH of 5.5. The proven Eucerin® pH5 Citrate Buffer consists of diammonium citrate and citric acid and stabilizes the skin's natural, protective acid mantle. The barrier function is usually impaired by pathological changes in the stratum corneum. Studies have shown that epidermal regeneration of the skin can be induced by reducing the pH, because the skin enzymes needed for the maturation of various barrier lipids work best in an acidic environment. At neutral or higher pH values, regeneration is impaired or even halted.

Eucerit® (lanolin alcohol)
Eucerit® is a highly purified lanolin alcohol with a high cholesterol content. The especially pure lanolin alcohol Eucerit® has a much lower allergy potential than other lanolin alcohols.


Composition of lanolin alcohol
Lanolin alcohol is a natural product consisting of a mixture of skin-related lipids extracted from waxes found in sheep's wool. The main component is cholesterol (30%) followed by lanosterol and lanosterol-like compounds (27%). Long-chain, aliphatic C18 to C30 n-alcohols make up the third largest component (approx. 20%).


Evening primrose oil (see also Fatty acids, Linolenic acid and Linoleic acid)
Evening primrose oil consists of approximately 85% fatty acids of the omega-6 group (linoleic acid and gamma-linolenic acid).
Topical application of dexpanthenol shortens the epithelisation phase in skin lesions and wounds.



1 Transformation of dexpanthenol into vitamin B5
2 Activation of the cell metabolism
3 Epidermis (outer skin layer)

Farnesol
Thanks to the antiseptic farnesol its antibacterial action reduces the growth of bacteria that contribute to strong body odours, especially in body areas with a gap in the protective acid mantle (for example the armpits).

Fatty acids (see also omega-6 fatty acids)
Fatty acids play an important role in the natural protective mechanisms of the skin, the hydrolipid film and the epidermal lipids.

Fatty acids are substances that, besides a carboxyl function, have long aliphatic residues (between 12 and 26 carbon atoms). By combining with alcohols, such as glycerin, they form long-chain acid lipids, in other words, fats.

Especially important - essential fatty acids

Some unsaturated fatty acids belong to the group of essential fatty acids: These cannot be synthesized in the body and must therefore be supplied by nutritional means. Signs of deficiency and disturbances in the skin's functions can result from a lack of essential fatty acids. There are two different groups of essential fatty acids:

omega-(n)-6 group (linoleic acid, gamma-linolenic acid)
omega-(n)-3 group (alpha-linolenic acid)

The first group is found mostly in plant oils (for example evening primrose oil, black currant seed oil). Fatty acids in the (n)-3 group come mostly from fish oils and are not as important for the skin condition as the omega-(n)-6 fatty acids.

Function of the essential fatty acids
As constituents of the phospholipids, essential fatty acids are important components of all cell membranes, making them permeable and elastic. Essential fatty acids play a central role in the formation of ceramides - the most important barrier-forming lipids of the epidermis - and are therefore essential for the stability and function of the permeability barrier. Further, the fatty acids are precursors of a wide range of mediators, which control many aspects of cell function. Among the mediators are the prostanoids (prostaglandins, leukotrienes, thromboxanes).

Fatty acids, essential (see Fatty acids)

Fatty acids, free (FFA)
Free fatty acids are non-esterified fatty acids, released from triglycerides in the skin by esterases of corynebacteria. The resultant free fatty acids create, amongst other things, the physiological acid environment on the skin's surface.

Fragrance (perfume, perfume mixtures)
The purpose of a fragrance is to mask the characteristic odour of skin cleansing and care products and to create a pleasant sensation for the user. Perfumes and fragrances come from various chemical families, mainly alcohols, aldehydes, ketones and organic esters.


Fruit acids (see Lactic acid and fruit acids)

Fucogel
Fucogel is a polysaccharide consisting of three mono-saccharides, fucose, galactose, and galacturonic acid. Fucogel is obtained by the biotechnological fermentation of soya and maize. The biopolymer creates a protective, hydrating film, formed by the macromolecular structure of Fucogel, on the skin's surface. This film is the basis for the action of Fucogel, which protects the skin from penetration by substances that can cause skin irritation.

Gamma-linolenic acid (see Linolenic acid, gamma-~ acid; Evening primrose oil)

Glycerin (glycerol)
Glycerin, also called glycerol, is the simplest trivalent alcohol. It is a natural component of the triglycerides (fats) and a hygroscopic fluid. It is therefore used in skincare products as a humectant. On the skin, glycerin has a moisturising effect and thus enhances the skin's own moisture content.

Glucosylrutin (see Alpha-glucosylrutin)

Hamamelis virginiana (hamamelis)
Tannins, ethereal oils and flavonoids are the active ingredients found in the hamamelis plant (witch hazel). Hamamelis extract is obtained from the bark, twigs and leaves, and from this the hamamelis distillate by steam distillation. It has a soothing effect on the skin.

Urea (carbamide, see also Formulations)
The organic compound urea is synthesized from two inorganic salts, potassium cyanate and ammonium sulphate. As urea is lacking in toxicity, it is gaining increasing importance in the treat-ment of chronic dry skin conditions - be they age-induced or illness-related.

Urea as a degradation product of the body
Urea (carbamide) is one of the most important end products of human protein metabolism - nearly all body fluids contain urea. The daily urea production of a human is between 25 and 30 grams. Urea is absorbed into the horny layer of the skin with sweat, which contains about 0.4
percent urea.

Lowered urea concentration in dry skin

In the horny layer of "normal" skin, in both men and women, approximately 8 micrograms of urea is found per square centimetre of skin surface. In people with clinically dry but symptom-free skin, the urea concentration is only 3 micrograms per square centimetre and in diseased skin 1.5 micrograms per square centimetre. Extremely low concentrations are found in aged skin, eczematous areas and patients with psoriasis. An especially severe form of urea deficiency is that found in patients with atopic dermatitis

Rehydration of the skin by urea

Urea is a major component of the natural moisturising factors (NMF). Because of this, rehydration of the horny layer is one of the most important actions of topically applied urea. In recent years, this clinically relevant property and resultant improvement in skin condition have been tested objectively by reproducible, biophysical methods.

Other properties of topically applied urea
Depending on concentration, urea has been shown to have keratoplastic and keratolytic properties as well as to increase the penetration rate of other, simultaneously applied active ingredients. The latter is especially true for corticosteroids, dithranol and fluorouracil. Its anti-puritic, antibacterial and buffering properties are put to therapeutic use with topical application.
 
In comparison to healthy skin, the urea content in neurodermatitis sufferers in both symptom-free or diseased states is markedly reduced (according to Wohlrab 1992).
Helianthus annuus (see Sunflower oil)

Hyaluronic acid
Hyaluronic acid is a highly polymerised mucopolysaccharide and an essential component of connective tissue. Solutions of hyaluronic acid, through the formation of a visco-elastic network, bind water extraordinarily tightly. Therefore, hyaluronic acid is used in skincare products as a humectant and thus protects the horny layer from drying out even under conditions of low humidity. Hyaluronic acid is nontoxic, non-allergenic and non-irritating.

Jojoba oil (buxus chinensis)
Jojoba oil comes from the fruit of the desert bush simmondsia chinensis and consists mainly of unsaturated C20 to C26 fatty acids that are esterified with simple unsaturated fatty alcohols. Jojoba oil is a liquid wax and easily absorbed into the skin. It is not irritating or sensitising on the skin and is free from phosphatides and other impurities. For these reasons, jojoba oil is used by the cosmetics industry as a lipid-replenishing and skin-moisturising agent in facial creams, sunscreen oils, hair oils, and shampoos.


Laureth-9 (Thesit®, polidocanol)
Laureth-9 is an ethoxylated fatty alcohol with local anaesthetic properties that is used in dermatology to relieve itching.

Lanolin alcohol (see Eucerit® )
Sunscreens (see also Titanium dioxide)
Sunscreens are used to protect the skin from the harmful effects of UV light. There are two types, chemical and physical sunscreens.

The first type absorbs UV rays and releases the energy as thermal radiation. Depending on wavelengths they absorb, sunscreens are classified as UVB (280-300 nm) or UVA (300-400 nm) filters. In order to provide a broad-spectrum medicinal UV protection, a combination of UVA filters and UVB filters are used. The second type, physical filters, such as micronized titanium dioxide and zinc oxide reflect UV rays directly from the skin's surface. To minimize the concentration of chemical UV filters, these are often combined with physical filters. The effectiveness is measured by what is known as the sun protection factor (SPF).

The formation of free radicals is further hindered by combining filter substances with antioxidants. Sunscreens are incorporated into various formulations, such as gels, milks, creams, oils or alcoholic lotions.


Linolenic acid, Alpha- Gamma-~ (see Fatty acids, Evening primrose oil)

Linoleic acid (see also Fatty acids, Evening primrose oil)
Together with gamma-linolenic acid, this unsaturated essential fatty acid belongs to the omega-(n)-6 fatty acids that are found mostly in plant oils.
Lipids
The term lipid (lipos, lip(ar) = oil, fat, fatty/greek) is used to describe the various oils, fats and fat-like substances. Common to all lipids are long aliphatic residues. These are responsible for the lipophilic solubility characteristics.

Skin surface lipids
The skin lipids encompass the epidermal lipids and the lipids found in sebum. The skin surface lipids are listed in the table on the left. Various special fatty acids, especially those in sebum, give the skin surface lipids an antibacterial and fungicidal property.

Subcutaneous fatty tissue
The "normal" fat of the subcutaneous fatty tissue corresponds chemically to the triglycerides. These consist of glycerin (glycerol) that combines with three fatty acids with elimination of water to form fat.

Waxes, phospholipids and other fat-like substances
Fatty acids are also constituents of waxes. In the case of phosphatides, glucolipids and aminolipids, various alcohols combine with fatty acids and other functional groups. For example, the phosphatides (phospholipids) are formed by glycerin, bonding with two fatty acids and a phosphoric acid residue. They are important components of the cellular bi-lipid membrane. The most important common feature of lipids containing phosphate, sugar (gluco-) or amino groups is that they all have a water-soluble (hydrophilic) polar "head".
Fat-like substances include waxes, phosphatides, steroids and fat-soluble natural products such as carotene.

Macadamia nut oil
Macadamia nut oil is obtained from the pressed nuts of the macadamia ternifolia tree and similar to mink oil, a monounsaturated fatty acid. It is easily absorbed into the skin, leaving a soft velvety skin feeling.
Micropigments (see Titanium dioxide)

Lactic acid and fruit acids
Lactic and fruit acids are included in the group of alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs). They have been used for many years in dermatology for the treatment of acne, cornification problems and to improve skin condition. Depending on the concentration and pH, they have a keratolytic effect, but can irritate the skin. In low concentrations and at a pH of about 5, they increase hydration of the horny layer and promote skin smoothness, without causing irritation.

Oils
Oils are liquid fats. In general they are inflammable and lighter than water. Although they are insoluble in water, they are soluble in many other solvents, such as ether and naphtha. They can have different properties according to their origin (mineral, plant or animal) and chemical composition. To improve stability, oils are often hydrogenated. This prevents them going rancid.

Omega fatty acids, omega-3 fatty acids, omega-6 fatty acids (see Fatty acids)

Panthenol (see Dexpanthenol)

Persea gratissima (see Avocado oil)

Phospholipids (see Formulations: Liposomes)

Polidocanol (see Laureth-9)

Preservatives
Preservatives are antimicrobial substances used in cosmetic products to prevent microbial contamination. Skin or mucous membrane irritation, caused by microbial metabolites, can thus be avoided. The measure of the efficacy of a preservative is the minimum inhibitory concentration (MIC), which is the concentration at which microbial growth is inhibited. In order to achieve a wide enough spectrum of activity, frequently various substances are mixed together: Mixtures of known and commonly used preservatives with low irritation and allergenic potentials find preferential use.

Q10 (see Coenzyme Q10)

Retinol
Known as vitamin A, retinol can take various isomeric forms. For example, all-trans-retinol, is the compound with the most vitamin A activity. Retinol is very sensitive to light, air and oxidating agents. Its special benefit is its exceptional antioxidant activity. A deficiency in vitamin A can lead to pathological changes in the skin and mucous membranes.

Retinyl palmitate
Retinyl palmitate is the palmitic acid ester of retinol (see also Retinol). As it is more stable than retinol, it is often used in place of retinol. Due to its cell-regenerating and humectant properties, it is used in anti-wrinkle creams.

Shea butter (butyrospermum parkii)
Shea butter is a natural fatty acid glyceride that comes from the nut of the karité or shea butter tree (butyrospermum parkii). Besides exceptional lipid-replenishing properties, it displays a caring (emollient) effect.

Sodium hyaluronate (see Hyaluronic acid)

Soya bean oil (Glycine soja)
Soya bean oil is obtained by the extraction or pressing out of soya bean seeds (glycine soya). This oil consists of triglycerides largely containing the omega-6 fatty acid, linoleic acid. Soya bean oil is therefore used in bath oils, haircare products and moisturising skincare products.

Sunflower seed oil (helianthus annuus)
Sunflower seed oil is extracted or pressed from the seeds of the sunflower (helianthus annuus). Depending on where the seeds are grown, it can contain between 15 and 65 percent oleic acid, 20 and 75 percent linoleic acid and vitamin E. Because of its high content of essential linoleic acids, sunflower seed oil is often used in skin and hair care products as well as bath supplements.

Surfactants (detergents)
Surfactants are surface-active substances. Cleansing surfactants are classified as anionic, cationic, amphoteric or non-ionic. In the group of anionic surfactants, sodium lauryl sulphate has a distinct irritation potential. Sodium laureth sulphate and sodium sulphosuccinate have a slightly altered molecular structure and thereby a significantly better skin compatibility.

Titanium dioxide, micronized (see also Sunscreens)
Micronized titanium dioxide is used in sunscreen preparations as a mineral micropigment. Sunscreens that consist exclusively of titanium dioxide are especially suitable for people with allergies to chemical filters and for use in small children.

Tocopherol (see vitamin E )

Tocopherol acetate (see Vitamin E)

Triglycerides, skin surface ~ (see Glycerin, Lipids, Surface ~)
Triglycerides, also called neutral fats, consist of three glycerin-bound fatty acids. Various triglycerides are important constituents of sebum. They are involved in the formation of the hydrolipid film and are important for maintaining the barrier function of the skin.

Ubiquinone (see Coenzyme Q10)

Urea (carbamide, see also Formulations)
Vitamin E
Vitamin E is a fat-soluble vitamin that inhibits the oxidation of poly-unsaturated fatty acids and thus ensures the firmness of the cell membrane and delays cell ageing. In the normal course of a day, the skin comes into contact with UV radiation and pro-oxidative environmental noxae (ozone, smog): These generate cell-damaging free radicals. Through the incorporation of vitamin E , the cell membranes are protected from the destructive activity of free radicals. Therefore, the use of vitamin E in skincare products prevents environmentally induced, premature ageing.


Zinc sulphate
Zinc sulphate is used as a mild disinfectant, an antiseptic and a deodorant. It is also used in the therapy of hyperhidrosis, rosacea and other skin diseases.

Zinc oxide, micronized (see also Sunscreens)
Micronized zinc oxide is used as a mineral micropigment in sunscreens. Sunscreens containing micropigments are ideal for people with allergy-prone skin and for children. The advantages lie in their optimum skin compatibility, because micropigments adhere well to the skin, reflect sunrays directly on the skin's surface, do not penetrate into the skin, and are non-toxic. Zinc oxide also has a weakly antiseptic and drying effect. In combination with dexpanthenol, an irritation-soothing effect is achieved (see dexpanthenol).


Schematic diagram of the action of vitamin E on lipid peroxidation and the termination of a radical chain reaction.
1 Free radical
2 Cell membrane
3 Radical chain reaction
4 Vitamin E
5 Neutralisation of free radicals by vitamin E

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